Todays brew is this one :
Toecutters Twist5000gm Pale Malt (MO) Grain 98%
100gm Crystal Malt Grain 2%
26gm Fuggles [4.90%] (90 min) Hops 12.6 IBU
35gm Styrian Goldings [3.00%] (90 min) Hops 10.4 IBU
30gm Styrian Goldings [3.00%] (15 min) Hops 4.6 IBU
50gm Styrian Goldings [3.00%] (0 min)
Yesterday everthing that I'll need for the brew was given a clean and the grains were weighed out. I'm using 5kg of Crushed Marris Otter pale malt and 100g of Crystal Malt. This picture shows the colour difference between the two.
I got a nice early start today and had the boiler switched on by 06:30.
The steps here were:
Heat the mash liquor to around 78 degrees
Transfer the required quantity (in this case 12L to the mash tun)
Leave the tun to stand for 5 minutes to heat through
I then checked the temperature and found it to be too hot still, i needed a strike temperature of 72 degrees I added 2 L of cold water to get the temperature down to 72.
Once at 72 I doughed in (mixed in the grains thoroughly) I had to adjust the temperature to my required mash temp (65 deg C)by adding a further 1L of cold water.
1tsp of CRS was then added and mixed into the mash to get the PH to 5.2
The coolbox mash tun is then closed and wrapped for 90 minutes.
At the end of the mash the temperature was 64.5 so only a half of a degree drop over the 90 minutes.
Next I ran off the cloudy first wort runnings into a jug and returned them to the mash tun, the flow of wort from the jug was diffused using some foil with holes in it. The purpose of doing this is to filter the wort through the grain bed until there are very few or no grain particles coming through. .
The runnings were free from particles after 4 litres had been returned so sparging started, using water from an old FV which has now become my HLT. I use a spinny sparge are which sprinkles hot water (80 degrees) onto the grain bed the wort is then run slowly into the boiler.
I adjust the flow so that the input matches the output so there is a constant flow through the grain bed.
I collected 30 litres in total 25 in the boiler and another 5 in a seperate vessel, the 5L was used to top up the boiler to replace the wort lost through evaporation.
The wort was then brought to the boil and the bittering hops added (26g Oregon Fuggles and 35g Styrian Goldings.
While the boil was underway I made up a yeast starter (DaaB's flying starter) with Safale S-04 yeast. I rehydrated the 11g of yeast in 200ml of 35 degree water in a large PET bottle, then took 400ml of wort after 15 minutes of the boil and cooled it to 25 degrees then added this to the bottle, shook it like crazy and squeezed the air out.
15 minutes from the end of the boil I added the aroma hops (30g Styrian Goldings) then 10 minutes from the end of the boil I added a whirlfloc tablet to aid the coagulation of the protein break matter.
At the end of the 90 minute boil I added the aroma/steep hops 50g Styrian Goldings.
Then I dropped the immersion cooler in to bring the temperature down to around 28 degrees.
Once cooled the wort was transferred to the FV using grativy to help aerate it.
I hit my target OG (1046) and pitched the yeast, hopefully this should be fermenting away within a few hours.
On Bank Holiday Monday my brother & his wife purchased a 36 pint keg of "Goats Milk" from Church End Brewery for around £42 (bargain), it's a superb afternoon quaffer at 3.8% and ideal for the BBQ, it's a nice light tasting ale with a predominant Styrian Goldings aroma, it went down very well indeed, here's my brother making sure the keg was definetely empty. Cheers! 
Today we visited friends in Toddington and visited The Bedford Arms, I had a couple of Wells Eagle IPA which were a nice afternoon session bitter. This is the write up from the Charles Wells web-site..
Well fermentation got off to a flyer, this picture is how it looked 8hrs after pitching the yeast.
Here is a picture of my Honey Ale "Ronnie Wrigglers Honey Ale"